Toda Embroidery – An Art Embroidered in Tradition and Culture

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Image – coonoorandco.com

Some people have magic in their hands. Or shall we say the magic lies in precision, technique and creativity, but finds its execution through the intricate working of the hands. Toda embroidery is a unique and stunning art form that is a perfect example of how hands working in tandem with the mind, heart and social culture can create a beautiful piece of mastery. An art form that has been passed from one generation to another, the women of the Toda tribe have given the country and the world an exquisite artistic embroidery that is distinct and wrapped deeply in its heritage. 

The Toda Tribe

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The Toda tribe are pastoral, residing in the Nilgiri Hills in Tamil Nadu. From their homes, language, culture to their embroidery, there is a unique distinctiveness that makes them stand apart. They live in semi-circular homes or huts made from bamboo and grass in a community called munds. Language is a close affiliation of Tamil-Malayalam essence and the Toda’s largely trade in dairy and forest products. The Toda embroidery is but an extension of their uniqueness that is also seen in many other aspects of their culture. In fact, the Toda tribe has gotten considerably more attention than other tribes due to its location. Hill stations, such as Ooty in the Nilgiris are major tourist destinations and hence, the Toda tribe is a recognized ethnic community. 

Toda Embroidery

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Image Source

Toda embroidery, in the language of the tribe, is called pohor. It is also known as pukhoor and uses red and black threads on a white cotton background. The Toda embroidery is so neat and fine that it is often mistaken to be hand woven into the cloth. Also, the embroidered cloth can be used both ways, another fascinating accomplishment of this art form. There are no threads or knots visible on either side, thus the design, pattern or utility remains the same of a Toda embroidered cloth on both sides. You can flip it anyway!

Listed as a GI tagged product, Toda embroidery is done primarily by the women of the community. The women have passed this art from one generation to another with no formal training as such. It is also a matter of wonder that embroidery designs are not taught, nor do women refer to any patterns or drawings. Usually, after the women finish their household chores, they gather and start embroidering, while chatting or catching up with each other. In their conversations and quietude, they seamlessly blend their embroidery, as almost a mechanical act. Yet, it is not as close as to being mechanical, when it comes to the varying range and exactness of designs that are created in their casual approach. As is said, the designs are embroidered on the minds of the Toda women, who with utmost diligence and creativity etch them on the cloth. 

Besides, the Toda embroidery uses thread counts to get its designs. Toda women, who have negligent mathematical or counting literacy, manage to create perfectly designed and proportioned geometric or floral designs without using any equipment, such as scales. 

Suggested Story: Traditional Embroideries of India – Finest Skills of Regional Artisans

Toda Embroidery Process and Technique

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The raw material used for embroidery is mostly a white cotton cloth. The cloth is often hand woven, unbleached and the cotton threads are not tightly woven. This facilitates counting of the embroidery threads while creating designs. The fabric is brought from surrounding areas, such as Tirupur in Tamil Nadu. Embroidery is done using woollen thick threads and a needle. 

The design begins from the back of the cloth as the women weave their needles to start off interesting patterns. After a while, the cloth is turned around, and the design is continued on the reverse side of the fabric. One of the most basic and fundamental stitches that the Toda women use is the darning stitch. The continuous back and forth and looping of the threads on either side of the fabric give the embroidery a rich and striking definition. It undoubtedly is a tedious process, but their skill is on full display as they embroider stunning and intricate patterns with geometric precision. The symmetry in design and pattern is clearly marked, as the Toda women with some innate and deep subconscious knowledge churn out different designs with no prior prep work, sketches or references. 

Toda Embroidery Designs and Patterns

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Image – Adaa Anu

The Toda tribe are close to nature. Also, their profession and personal lives are embroidered into their natural surroundings. There is no surprise that they draw inspiration from the natural and local environment in their embroidery designs as well. For instance, different motifs are based on physical features and elements. The Nilgiri Mountains, the sun, moon, stars, animals, flowers all find place in the art. But even the tiny references are made into motifs. For example, the wings of butterflies have inspired the kopaan motif, or the squirrel movements have given rise to the peshk motif. From beehives to wildflowers to bull horns or rabbit ears – Toda embroidery draws its designs and motifs from the little and big things of their geographic and social lives. Also, different motifs are given names from the Toda language. Some of these are huts (zigzag), kinask (heart shaped), esh puhur (arrow), poth puhur (diamond shape), mad puhur (triangle shape) etc. 

Moreover, the usage of red and black threads (sometimes blue),  in Toda embroidery is a characteristic that is influenced by the cultural symbols, motifs and natural elements of tribal life. 

Besides motifs, several Toda designs are also apt at storytelling. The sequence in pattern follows tales from social or cultural rituals and events of the tribe. Toda embroidery hence, also documents their lifestyle and culture in stitches. 

Toda Embroidery Utility of Products

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Image – Ambara

The most traditional and heritage use of Toda embroidery is on the thick shawls and cloaks that are worn by both men and women. Called poothkuly, these traditional shawls showcase some of the best designs of the tribe. 

Besides shawls, Toda embroidery is used today on many products, such as bags, jackets, handpurses, keychains, mobile pouches, cushion covers and more. 

Toda Embroidery Contemporary Scenario

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Image – coonoorandco.com

Toda Embroidery achieved its GI tag in 2013. Constructive efforts through several years have played a role in the preservation and recognition of this art form. Government initiatives, as well as involvement of different NGOs, has led to considerable efforts. Various bodies and institutes, such as Todas Handicraft Sale Emporium, Nilgiri Adivasi Welfare Association, Kotagiri Women’s Co-operative Cottage Industrial Society Ltd. AIACA and others have contributed to the wellbeing and progress of the art form. 

Collaborating with designers, market diversification, cultural tourism efforts, exchange programs and women empowerment programs can help to further strengthen the growth and sustainability of Toda Embroidery.

Final Thoughts 

Toda Embroidery is a classic example of an art that is so woven into the social and cultural life of its people, that it creates and in turn reflects the heritage and traditions of a community. Its simplicity is emphasised by the precision, creativity and skill of artistry. For those outside the tribe, Toda embroidery is an aweing expression of excellence. But for the Toda women, it is an everyday exercise that is an extension of their routine and character. For the natural meandering of this art form that flows through and hence connects other cultural and social aspects of tribal life – Toda Embroidery is truly special.

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