Photos: Prasad Siddhanthi / Narration: Ravishankar Bale
Rajasthan is undoubtedly the most royal state in India. Evenly spread across this largest state are numerous Rajput palaces, forts, grand mansions, and monuments. The state is also renowned for its picturesque colours and hues in its landscapes, costumes, cuisine, dance, and music. Its proximity to Indian capital Delhi and the Taj Mahal in Agra further enhances its appeal to foreign tourists.
The havelis of Rajasthan are hidden treasures for common travellers. My brother-in-law, Prasad, stumbled upon some photographs on Instagram that enthralled us both. We packed our bags for a road trip from Delhi NCR in our quest to explore and experience more of enchanting Rajasthan.
The Shekhawati region consists of several districts around Jhunjhunu city, which is located near the Haryana border. Modern administrative divisions can never erase the historical and cultural boundaries in our country that have developed over centuries due to ancient kingdoms, languages, cuisine, culture, climate, landscape, architecture, agriculture, or even the distinct facial features of its inhabitants. Haveli serves as a prime example of these common characteristics in the Shekhawati districts. For example, a haveli in Bikaner is markedly different from the havelis we visited in the Shekhawati region.
The name Shekhawati finds its roots in the founder, Rao Shekha, a regional chieftain of the Rajputs, who established this legacy in the 15th century. However, the magnificent havelis of the Shekhawati region came into existence only a century or two back. Encompassing the towns of Jhunjhunu, Sikar, Churu, Mandawa, Fatehpur, Navalgarh, Dundlod, and many more, this region is a treasure trove of history and architectural wonders.
The history of fresco paintings is much older than the Renaissance period of the Roman royal and religious monuments that display the finest artwork of that era. The term ‘fresco’ means ‘fresh’ in the Italian language, implying that fresh paint, made from water-based pigments, is applied to fresh plaster on walls. Hundreds of expensive havelis were built as their private residences by the marwari clan of Rajasthan, out of their personal wealth from the trading. Bhagats, Goenkas, Podars, Ladias, Birlas, Chowkanis, etc., to name a few. They were part of the supply chain management of the Silk or Spice Route that passed through Rajasthan. The discovery of sea routes to India by the Eropeans paved way for East India Company, set up in Calcutta. This eventually replaced the Spice Route trading with Sea Routes business using both east and west coasts of India to Europe, cutting off the middlemen Arabs from the supply system. This also affected the prospects of Rajasthani traders. The wealthy marwaris shifted their bases to Calcutta and Bombay in the 1900s to open their channels with their ‘new arabs’ – the firangis. Marwaris’ sourcing of spices from the southern India and Ceylon and textiles from their own Rajasthan, etc., however, did not change. The havelis that were also built within the same century were slowly abandoned. Their family trees grew tall, wide and apart in the greener pastures. Variety of reasons can be attributed for neglecting most of these ancestorial properties, that were built with passion, with purposeful design and architecture, patronising the arts and music within them, fell to the grime and dust of time.
The uniform layouts of the mansions primarily exhibit utility and funcationality for running their businesses and keeping safe the families. Security, confidentiality, safety and privacy for the woman folk, office for business transactions, terrace, watch tower, utility rooms, kitchen, living rooms, open to sky courtyards, etc. The artistic doors, walls, ceilings and brackets were part of the desires and to match the status within the clan. There were also special rooms meant for music, dance and display of collections.
The photos with individual descriptions tell the remaining tales. More juice, we hoped to get out of Rajasthan has only left us even more thirsty. Our four days of exploration fell short.
The Enigmatic Entryway (Podar Museum Haveli at Nawalgarh)
The main entrance door at the street’s edge leads you into the outer courtyard, while the second entrance door, which remains shut in this image, grants access to the inner courtyard.
Within the main door, there is a small opening, about four feet in height, intended for unknown visitors, who were expected to enter with their heads and backs bowed. In contrast, the entire door was opened to welcome known or important guests, as well as horse-drawn carts and oxen.
When an unfamiliar guest came in through the small door, he had to bend to enter. This was taken as a gesture of respect towards the haveli. This practice might have also served to reduce the risk of potential attacks, as merchants often stored their wealth within the mansion.
A Glimpse of Elegance – It is a Jewel ! (Podar Museum Haveli, Nawalgarh)
The second entrance opens to a captivating inner courtyard exclusively designated for the household members and female visitors. This charming space is often referred to as the ‘female chowk’ ‘square’.
The door assembly itself is a true work of art, boasting intricate wooden carvings and meticulous paintings that adorn its surface. The arch with its floral design reflects a distinct Islamic influence, adding a touch of exotic beauty to the haveli’s ambience.
The paintings on the door are a visual feast, showcasing a rich array of Hindu deities and epic scenes. It is a mesmerizing fusion of artistic traditions, making this entrance a true jewel!
Sentry’s Post at the Main Entrance
The Sentry Post is situated to the left of the main entrance. The sentry on duty kept a watchful eye through an opening overlooking the street, ready to welcome visitors for both business and household purposes.
The “Chamber of Commerce” (Thalia Museum Haveli, Mandava)
Merchants at Thalia Museum Haveli ingeniously employed attendants with speech and hearing impairments to operate rope-operated fans and serve them otherwise, leveraging the advantages to ensure secrecy of the deals.
The Enchanting Inner Courtyard (Podar Haveli Museum in Nawalgarh)
As you step through the second entrance of this haveli, a treasure trove of remarkably rich paintings and captivating artwork unfolds before your eyes in its inner courtyard. This historic haveli has been transformed into a fully-fledged museum, wherein its frescoes have been meticulously preserved and restored. Some of these havelis showcase a harmonious blend of modern themes alongside depictions of Hindu deities and epics.
Adorning the upper walls, nestled between the brackets and door frames, are a series of
captivating paintings. Zoom-in to see, one row vividly illustrating British troops from the colonial era, while the second row showcases a train, complete with coaches and a steam engine, encircling the courtyard on all sides.
Women’s Realm: The Inner Courtyard
The ground floor is a hub of utility rooms, serving various purposes like water and grain storage, grinding , kitchen, dining, washing, prayer, and family gatherings. In the context of the ‘joint family’ setup, some households even boasted two kitchens to cater to individual family units.
Additionally, please take note that the artwork on the higher floor walls has gradually faded away due to more prolonged exposure to harsh weather conditions.
Double Delight : Harmukh Rai Chowkhani Twin Havelis in Mandava
This astute businessman displayed remarkable wisdom and foresight when he commissioned the construction of identical twin havelis for his two sons. One of these havelis boasts meticulously restored wall paintings, while the other retains its walls with original, untouched paintings.
Treasures Above: The Upper Floor Rooms (Podar Museum Haveli, Nawalgarh)
Every room on the upper floor is a showcase of antique collections or a demonstration of the lifestyle from that era. A diverse array of artifacts including Indian musical instruments, traditional Rajasthani turbans, Gandhi memorabilia with Khadi tools and loom, etc. offer a fascinating glimpse into the past.
There is not a blank surface… and never a dull moment 😉
Krishna Leela: Krishna’s Divine Dominion
A vivid tapestry of Hindu mythological art, which primarily depicts the captivating tales of Lord Krishna, particularly the ‘Raasa-leela’, is enchanting. Depictions of Lord Ganesha at the entrance, the revered figures of Lord Rama, Lord Shiva, and the graceful Goddess Lakshmi, all contribute to the rich and diverse pantheon of deities adored in Rajasthan.
A Contemporary Twist: The Goenka Daughter Mansion in Mandava
This magnificent mansion, generously gifted by a father to his daughter, a Goenka, offers a unique departure from traditional themes. The fresco paintings here tell the story of European cities, such as the allure of Venice, and features Western-style costumes. While they bring a modern touch, they may not match the finesse and intricate details seen in the paintings of Indian themes.
It is worth noting that imported materials like exquisite Belgian glasses and Italian wood carvings were a common sight in several havelis, contributing to their distinctive charm and character.
Thalia Haveli: A Collector’s Paradise in Mandava
Stepping into Thalia Haveli is like entering a collector’s dream, where a vast and assortment of dismembered stone and wooden structural pieces, alongside an array of captivating antiques, adorn both its interior and exterior. Among its treasures, there are postcards from pre-independence India, precious stones, gems, and other personal artifacts. These are for sale.
Doors & Windows in Women’s World
Within the intricate lattice of doors and windows, women found a way to let in light and fresh air while allowing themselves the discreet pleasure of peering outside, their faces concealed from the prying eyes of the street!
Fading Splendour: Poverty and Neglect
Street scenes around a few havelis in Mandava and Fatehpur.
A glimpse into the lives of the locals today reveals a stark contrast to the grandeur of the past, as poverty and neglect have cast a shadow over the once-magnificent havelis in all these Haveli towns. The monumental artistry that surrounds them goes largely unnoticed in their mundane lives.
